Things to Do in Toul Tom Poung (Russian Market Area), Phnompenh

Atmosphere

A working neighborhood where tourists shop shoulder-to-shoulder with Phnom Penh families, all bathed in barbecue smoke and the metallic smell of old coins.

Price Level

$$

Safety

good

Central Market Hall

Under the green corrugated dome, morning light filters through bullet holes in the skylights. Rows of vintage cameras, gilded Buddhas and cracked vinyl records compete for space. The tiled floor is slick with condensation, carrying the smell of mothballs and fresh coconut.

Tip: Slip past the tourist entrance on Street 444; the north-east corner hides Soviet military watches that still tick.

Street 163's Food Strip

By 6 pm the pavement turns into a grill pit. Turmeric-yellow smoke rises from pork skewers, while a woman ladles num banh chok from a tin vat, her ladle clinking against chipped enamel bowls like wind chimes.

Tip: Look for the grandmother with the single bare lightbulb—her cha kreung sach ko is the neighborhood’s quiet obsession.

Tuol Tom Poung Pagoda

Behind the market, saffron-robed novices sweep leaves between moss-covered stupas. The air here is cooler, laced with sandalwood and the faint echo of monks chanting into ancient cassette recorders.

Tip: The side gate on Street 450 opens at dawn; you’ll share the space with only stray dogs and the occasional incense vendor.

Wat’s App Books & Coffee

An air-conditioned refuge smelling of cardamom and old paperbacks. The barista plays 1960s Khmer rock while sunlight streams through louvred windows onto mismatched furniture.

Tip: Order the iced coffee with condensed milk and claim the upstairs balcony table—it’s the only spot with a view of the temple roofline.

Street Art Alley off 155

A narrow lane where spray-painted apsaras dance beside faded Soviet propaganda posters. The walls are cool to touch even at noon, and the echo of your footsteps bounces back with the distant sound of karaoke.

Tip: Go at 5 pm when the shadows stretch long and the murals glow like backlit film slides.

Num Pang Euy

Street sandwich cart

Specialty: Grilled pork num pang with pickled papaya and fresh cilantro, about $1.50

Lan Zhou Noodles

Hand-pulled Chinese noodle house

Specialty: Beef tendon noodle soup with star anise broth on Street 440, $2.75

Elephant Barbecue

Khmer grill joint

Specialty: Marinated frog legs with lemongrass and Kampot pepper, $3 a skewer

Café Yeay Chi

Hole-in-the-wall dessert spot

Specialty: Sticky rice with mango and coconut cream served in banana leaf cups, $1

Bong Ker

Late-night noodle stall

Specialty: Num kroch (fried dough balls) and iced coffee at 2 am, $0.75

Doctors Bar

A narrow shophouse where expat medical students argue over $0.75 beers and 90s hip-hop.

Cheap beer, loud debates

Yellow Bar

Rooftop garden with fairy lights and plastic stools, playing Khmer pop until the power cuts.

Backpacker sing-along

The Laundry

A converted laundromat serving gin cocktails among humming washing machines.

Quiet cocktails, indie music